Northern Thailand: Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Pai, and the Mae Hong Son Loop

Northern Thailand is the most atmospheric part of the country, and the most distinct. The Lanna kingdom (1296-1775) left 300+ temples in Chiang Mai, 200+ in Chiang Rai, the cool mountain climate, the hill-tribe culture (H'Mông, Karen, Lisu, Akha, Lahu, Yao), and the most-refined regional cuisine. This is a guide to a 1-2 week trip through the mountains.

The 7-day plan

Day 1-3: Chiang Mai

The cultural capital of the north, 700 years of Lanna history, 300+ temples in a 1-km walled city. The must-sees: Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Suan Dok, Doi Suthep. The food: khao soi, sai ua, nam prik num, sticky rice. The markets: Sunday Walking Street, the Night Bazaar. The day trips: Doi Inthanon (the highest mountain), the elephant sanctuary. See the dedicated Chiang Mai guide.

Day 4: Chiang Rai

The smaller, quieter sister of Chiang Mai, 200 km northeast. The must-sees: Wat Rong Khun (the White Temple, the most famous artist temple in Thailand), Baan Dam (the Black House, the controversial artist museum), the Golden Triangle (the opium-growing history, the view of Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand). The food: northern Thai, similar to Chiang Mai, plus the Burmese influence (the khao soi is different here). Stay 1-2 nights.

Day 5-6: Pai

The hippy mountain town 3 hours west of Chiang Mai, 135 km of the most scenic road in the Thai north (1,819 curves, the most-photographed motorbike road). The must-sees: Pai Canyon (the most-photographed), the hot springs, the waterfalls, the night market, the bamboo bridge. The food: organic, the international backpacker food, the best coffee in the mountains. The vibe: the most laid-back in Thailand. Stay 2-3 nights.

Day 7: Return to Chiang Mai

The minivan back to Chiang Mai is 3 hours, the most scenic 3 hours in northern Thailand. Or the motorbike (the same road, the most fun on a 110cc or 125cc).

The 14-day plan (with the Mae Hong Son loop)

The 7-day plan plus the Mae Hong Son motorbike loop. The loop is 600 km around the western edge of the northern mountains, 3-4 days of motorbike riding, with the most scenic road in Thailand, the Karen and H'Mông villages, the national parks, and the most-photographed views of the trip.

Day 8: Chiang Mai → Mae Hong Son (the 1,864-curve road)

250 km, 6-7 hours on a motorbike, the most-photographed road in Thailand. Stop at the Pang Tong Palace (the king's summer palace), the Doi Kiew Lom viewpoint, the Huai Nam Dang National Park.

Day 9: Mae Hong Son (the town)

The small provincial capital, the most atmospheric, the least touristy. The must-sees: Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu (the hilltop temple, the view of the valley), the morning market, the Burmese temple influence. The atmosphere: the most authentically "northern" town in the area.

Day 10: Mae Hong Son → Pai (the 762-curve road)

130 km, 3-4 hours on a motorbike, the most scenic 4 hours in the loop. Stop at the Ban Rak Thai (the Chinese-Myanmar village), the H'Mông village, the viewpoint at the top.

Day 11-12: Pai

As above. 2-3 nights in Pai.

Day 13-14: Pai → Chiang Mai (the same road back, 3 hours)

Or extend the loop by going south to Mae Sariang and then back east to Chiang Mai. The longer loop is 800 km, 5-6 days of motorbike riding.

The hill-tribe experiences

Northern Thailand has 6 main hill-tribe groups: the H'Mông, the Karen, the Lisu, the Akha, the Lahu, the Yao. The cultural experiences:

• Home stays: The overnight in a hill-tribe village, the most authentic way to experience the culture. The most common are in the villages around Chiang Mai, Pai, and Mae Hong Son.
• Markets: The weekly markets in the hill-tribe villages, the most famous is the Sunday Walking Street in Chiang Mai. The H'Mông textiles, the silver, the wood, the embroidered bags.
• Trekking: The 1-3 day treks through the villages, with the guide from the community. The most ethical are the ETHOS treks from Chiang Mai, the Lisu Lodge, and the H'Mông Lodge. $25-50/day.

The national parks

• Doi Inthanon: The highest mountain in Thailand (2,565 m), 2 hours from Chiang Mai, the cloud forest, the trails, the most popular. $10 entry.
• Doi Suthep-Pui: The mountain above Chiang Mai, the temple, the trails, the most visited. Free entry.
• Huai Nam Dang: The national park on the road to Pai, the most scenic, the most photographed. $10 entry.
• Mae Surin: The national park near Mae Hong Son, the waterfalls, the most remote, the least visited. $10 entry.
• Chiang Dao: The national park 70 km north of Chiang Mai, the most mountainous, the cave temple, the most authentic. $10 entry.

When to go

November to February: The best months. Cool (10-25°C), dry, blue skies. The burning season hasn't started. The flowers bloom.

March to April: The burning season. The smoke-haze is real, the air quality is poor. Avoid if you have respiratory issues.

May to October: The rainy season. The air is fresh, the rice paddies are green, the waterfalls are at their best. The prices are 30-50% lower.

How to get around

Minivans: The most common, the most efficient, the most uncomfortable on the longer routes. Chiang Mai-Chiang Rai 4 hours, $10. Chiang Mai-Pai 3 hours, $7. Chiang Mai-Mae Hong Son 6-7 hours, $15.

Motorbike: The most scenic, the most fun, the most dangerous. Rent a 110cc or 125cc for $5-8/day. The Mae Hong Son loop is the world-class motorbike ride.

Songthaews (red trucks): The local buses, the most authentic, the most uncomfortable. Most cities have them.

Private car with driver: The most comfortable, the most expensive. $50-100/day including fuel and the driver.

What to know

• The northern dialect (Kham Mueang) is different from the central Thai. Most people also speak central Thai.
• The northern food is distinct from the central Thai. Less coconut milk, more herbs, more bitter, more sticky rice.
• The hill-tribe villages have specific cultural rules. A local guide is the way to respect them.
• The motorbike accidents are the most common cause of injury. Don't ride drunk, don't ride at night, don't ride in the rain.
• The cool-season weather can drop to 5°C in the mountains. Bring a jacket.

Cost (7-14 days, per person, 2 sharing, mid-range)

• Accommodation: $20-80/night × 7 = $140-560
• Food: $10-20/day = $70-140
• Transport (minivans): $50-100
• Activities (treks, elephant, national parks): $100-300
• Total: $360-1,100

What to skip

• The "long-neck Karen" villages: The Karen Long Neck villages in northern Thailand are tourist traps. The Kayan people were displaced from Myanmar, the villages are a stage set, the cultural authenticity is zero. Avoid.
• The Chiang Mai "elephant riding" camps: The ethical sanctuaries (observation-only) are good. The riding camps are bad. Do the research.
• The "Maekhong whiskey village" tours: The villages outside Chiang Mai are a tour-bus thing, the whiskey is a marketing thing, the authenticity is the marketing.